WHITEWATER RAFTING

Alsek River Kluane, Glacier Bay and UNESCO World Heritage Site Raft Expedition

Perhaps the best way to articulate the unique features of the Alsek River is to describe a rafting or canoeing journey on it. The first striking aspect of the Alsek is its origins in the alpine hills at Serpentine Creek where you start this Alsek paddling adventures. The broad river valley of the Alsek within Kluane National Park is distinctly representative of high altitude ecosystems. The Alsek also is distinctive due to the spectacular historic and geological events that took place in its valley two centuries ago. In the late half of the 1800s, this river was entirely blocked by a sudden movement of the Lowell Glacier. The resulting lake backed up over an area of hundreds of square miles, even flooding the current site of Haines Junction. The Alsek’s ice dam remained for a few years until it was finally broached by the river in a cataclysmic event in which the valley below was flushed by a flow of gargantuan proportion. Native history tells of villages that were decimated by the Alsek’s floodwaters. When one travels the river today, scaring and other effluvial remains can be seen that tell the story of this monstrous hydrological event.

While marveling at the unique beauty of the valley and the stunning geological history of the Alsek, you soon reach the iceberg dotted Lowell Lake, the only remaining vestige of the vast flood. Camping here for two nights, take the opportunity to hike up Goat Heard Mountain for panoramic views of the ice fields including the tallest peaks of the St Elias Range. Mountain goats, Dall sheep and other flora and fauna vie for your attention.

After crossing Lowell Lake the mountains crowd inwards leaving narrow canyons. The water rushes through with several distinct rapids and an ever changing vista. With never a dull moment over the next few days, you approach Turnback Canyon and are immediately confronted by the Tweedsmuir, the largest of all the glaciers on this Alsek trip. Acting like a huge funnel, it forces the river into a narrow confine crowding it into a deep gorge known as Turnback Canyon. Downstream the river plunges through a ten-mile series of horrendous rapids. Though Turnback Canyon has been kayaked several times, it is still considered to be unsafe for rafts. Camp is above Turnback Canyon, at the foot of the glacier.

The never ending drama of the trip continues to unfold the following day as a helicopter arrives at camp to begin ferrying you and the equipment around Turnback Canyon. On the short flight, you are afforded a great view of the area and the famous rapids that few have seen. On the other side of the canyon, you will inflate and re-rig the boats and continue downstream.

Passing the Vern Ritchie and Battle Glaciers, camp at the confluence of the Tatshenshini and Alsek Rivers. At the confluence, these two historic rivers swell to stretch nearly three miles wide, surging through braided channels that criss-cross the valley. The resulting union bears the name Alsek River and soon enters the State of Alaska and Glacier Bay National Park.

On a giant bend that can be seen from space, you are encircled by peaks in a stunning amphitheatre of glacial ice and rock. From this point, view the crystal blue hues of Walker Glacier, a place where you actually hike on the surface of this ancient ice and experience the unique environment of deep crevasses and jagged seracs and ice falls.

Floating downstream, you have a view of more than 20 glaciers as you make your way down to the place where the Alsek and Grand Plateau Glaciers come together at the river to form an eight-mile wide face of ice. Camp at Alsek Lake, which was formed by the gouging action of the glaciers resulting in the largest lake found anywhere in Glacier Bay Park.

The only thing breaking the mystical spell of the iceberg-filled lake with the mountain backdrop is the frequent explosive crescendos of calving glaciers spawning multi-ton icebergs. Overseeing the phenomenon is Mt. Fairweather, whose ice clad summit soars over 15,000 feet above camp.

Enjoying and exploring the lake is a delight to all of the senses. The final leg of this memorable trip is from Alsek Lake to Dry Bay on the Gulf of Alaska. At the tiny commercial fishing enclave, you are met by small charter planes for the flight back to Whitehorse with a plane load of memories.

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