WHITEWATER RAFTING

Nahanni Canyons Raft Expedition (12 Days)

The South Nahanni River, lying within Nahanni National Park, is one of North America's finest wild rivers and rushes 322 kilometers through the park. At Virginia Falls, the river cascades down the cliffs of Nahanni National Park to form this continent's most spectacular undeveloped waterfall with twice the height of Niagara Falls. Immediately downriver from Virginia Falls lie eight kilometers of nearly continuous rapids and standing waves created as the Nahanni River flows through Fourth Canyon. Nahanni National Park contains a number of strikingly different landscapes within it. Four great canyons, up to 1,200 meters deep, line the Nahanni. At Rabbitkettle Hotsprings, warm (20°C) water radiates outward to form an intricately terraced mound of tufa rock, more than 27 meters high.

The Nahanni River’s reputation as a land of mystery and romance is supported by names like Deadmen’s Valley, Headless Creek, Funeral Range, Burial Range, Hells Gate and Painted Canyon. Inhabited by moose, caribou, Dall Sheep, grizzly and black bear and a host of others, the Nahanni River is also rich in human history with legends and lore inseparable from its physical beauty.

Each Nahanni canoeing and rafting expedition includes Virginia Falls, the canyons and the small and isolated First Nation community of Nahanni Butte. All Nahanni River canoeing and whitewater rafting trips depart from Fort Simpson and all include opportunities for hiking. Canadian River Expeditions predicts you too will fall in love with this regal river with such a beautiful name.

History of the Nahanni River
For thousands of years, the ancestors of the modern day Dene people lived and hunted in the Nahanni. Over time, three distinct regional bands of native people became established in the area. The Slavey people lived along the shores of the MacKenzie and Liard Rivers while the mountainous country to the west was home to two nomadic bands of natives, the Mountain Indians and a small group of Kaska Indians known to the Slavey as the 'Nahaa'. These were the mysterious Indians referred to as the 'Nahannis' by the white fur traders who came into the country in the 1800s. The South Nahanni River is named after this group of indigenous people.

Alexander McLeod, the Chief Trader at Fort of the Forks, a Hudsons Bay Company Post, later renamed Fort Simpson, was the first recorded European to venture into the land of the Nahaa in the year 1823. Others seeking furs and gold soon followed, Macabre incidents and traditional native lore intertwined to weave legends about the Nahanni region. In 1908, the headless skeletons of the McLeod brothers were found along the river in what is today known as Deadmen Valley. Other skeletons and corpses followed and the Nahanni became fertile ground for lurid tales - a place where brave men and women feared to go.

It wasn't until the late 1920s, when prospector Albert Faille and adventurer R.M. Patterson ventured up the river, that some of the myths were dispelled. Patterson's book, Dangerous River, brought world-wide attention to the region. Although rumours of gold in the Nahanni still abound, this precious treasure has never been found in any quantity in the Nahanni region.

Geographic Highlights of the Nahanni
The Nahanni River’s headwaters lie in the Selwyn Mountains. The river flows through the mountains and gorges of the MacKenzie Mountains and ends in the wide valley flats near its mouth. Geographers describe the river as an antecedent river, meaning “one whose direction of flow was established before the mountains rose”. Before the mountains in this area were created, the Nahanni wandered across a wide plain. When the rock uplifts occurred, the river maintained its course by cutting through the rock strata. This resulted in the formation of canyons believed to be 1.4 million years old. Unlike most of Canada, this area was not completely covered by ice during the last ice age. Because of this, parts of the Nahanni River Valley were not affected by glaciations for at least 300,000 years. It is believed that the scouring and widening of the Nahanni River Valley was caused by advancing glaciers two million years ago.

The wilderness region surrounding the Nahanni contains rugged mountains and one of the deepest river canyon systems in the world. It also hosts one of the most remarkable karst limestone landscapes found anywhere. Caves, hot springs, tufa mounds, sand blowouts, spectacular plateaux, fossils and countless other geological phenomena are evident along the Nahanni valley.

Trip Details

Note:
The following is a tentative agenda and has been designed with much thought to capitalize on the most scenic and exciting parts of the river while making time on other sections. Your guides will adjust the schedule to make the best use of river and weather conditions. Canadian River Expeditions adheres to the new departure regulation system of the park, which works to ensure that all river travelers have the same wilderness experience.

The following initials indicate the meals included each day: Breakfast = B | Lunch = L | Dinner = D

Day 1: Majestic Mountain & Canyon Flight (D)
This is the first day listed for your trip. Your journey north from your home will be a refreshing departure. You will fly over the largest expanse of wilderness in the world with stunning views on cloudless days, pass through quieter and friendlier airports, meet friendlier and less harried service personnel and generally begin to immerse yourself in the wilderness experience that is about to unfold.

Your trip leader will meet you at the airport (if you arrive prior, please make your way to your accommodations). After loading supplies and gear into the aircraft, begin one of the major highlights of the adventure - the upriver flight. Flying over the majestic Nahanni Range and Ram Plateau, a visually stunning panorama unfolds in front of your eyes. You want to be sure to have your camera on your lap with lots of film! Past participants have stepped off the plane declaring that “if the trip finished now, I would have my money's worth!”

Following supper in camp at Virginia Falls, your guides will provide further briefing with the techniques for living comfortably along the river. A last look at the stunning scenery before bed will remind you that you are in one of the most scenic places on the planet!

Please note that under certain conditions (weather, forest fire, plane availability and upriver conditions), it may be necessary to make the upriver flight soon after arrival. On the other hand, Canadian River Expeditions has occasionally found themselves waiting for safe flying conditions. In any event, you will have supper and camp in Ft. Simpson or on the shores of the Nahanni.

If you are required to overnight in Fort Simpson you are welcome to camp or take a hotel room (at your own cost).

Day 2: Virginia Falls (B/L/D)
This is a day for exploring and photographing the area around Virginia Falls, nearly twice the height of Niagara. The vast expanse of the Falls captivates photographers and hikers with a tireless display of powerful drama. Keen and fit hikers may undertake an all-day expedition to the top of Sunblood Mountain for an excellent view of the surrounding area. Others can enjoy exploring the expansive area overlooking the brink of the falls.

Day 3: Painted Canyon (B/L/D)
Make the final portage around the falls. The trail is downhill and well defined. You need carry only what is comfortable for you. Everyone pitches in to carry what they can and you take as long as is needed to complete the task. It is impossible to spend too much time at Virginia Falls! Assemble the boats and, after a late shore lunch and briefing, embark in the late afternoon on an exhilarating run through Painted Canyon, also known as Fourth Canyon. The final challenge for the day will be Figure 8 Rapids (Hell’s Gate). Camp is finally made for the evening below Wrigley Creek.

Day 4: The Gate (B/L/D)
Drift past the confluence of the Flat River and then enter Third Canyon, the walls of which loom 1200 m above. This 20 km canyon is created by the river slicing through the mixed strata of shales, sandstones and limestones of the Funeral Range. Camp halfway through this canyon near The Gate, a 100 m wide gorge where the walls tower 460 m above.

Day 5: Big Bend (B/L/D)
In the morning, take a short hike to the top of The Gate and be awarded with a magnificent view of Third Canyon and Pulpit Rock. After lunch, it’s back in the rafts and on through Third Canyon to camp at Big Bend.

Day 6: Deadmen Valley (B/L/D)
On through Second Canyon and into Deadmen Valley, where you will stop for a spectacular two-hour walk up a dry creek bed for an overview of this immense region. After drifting by Headless Creek, continue on to Sheaf Creek. Here R. M. Patterson and his partner Gordon Mathews wintered in 1928. Camp for the night at Dead Man Valley.

Day 7: Prairie Creek (B/L/D)
This may be selected by the trip guide as a lay-over day. If so, you can spend a relaxing day around camp or exploring the massive alluvial fan of Prairie Creek. For birders it is the nesting grounds for upland sand pipers, common nighthawks, white winged crossbills, chipping and savanna sparrows. Fishermen will find both bull trout and Arctic grayling inhabiting the pools and eddies of the creek.

Day 8: Into the Canyon Kingdom (B/L/D)
Start the day with a short hike up Dry Canyon, followed by the big waves of George’s Riffle. These rapids are at the western entrance to First Canyon. Camp near its end at Lafferty Creek.

Day 9: Lafferty Canyon (B/L/D)
Spend the day hiking up Lafferty Creek canyon to view some of the hundreds of caves in the area.

Day 10: Kraus Hotsprings (B/L/D)
After the waves of Lafferty’s Riffle, take a quick dip in Kraus’ Hotsprings before bidding farewell to the canyons and entering the braided channels of The Splits. Here a broad valley is revealed and the surrounding mountains, ridge piled upon ridge, form a dramatic contrast to the enclosure of the canyons. Lush boreal forest bordered by steep ridges form a “story book” setting.

Day 11: Nahanni Butte and Great Dene Wall (B/L/D)
Making an early start from camp in The Splits, head for the native community of Nahanni Butte. Stopping in the village, there will be an opportunity to see this traditional community. You will be hosted by a member of the community who will show you through the village, sharing the history and culture of the people who have made this area home for thousands of years. They will treat you to tea and bannock and try to answer any questions you may have about life in this remote part of the world.

Canadian River Expeditions plans to fly you in a charter aircraft over the Liard Valley, back to Fort Simpson. If weather conditions prohibit flying, transport will be by river boat to Blackstone Territorial Park and then van to Fort Simpson. In either event you will need to book accommodations for this final night in Fort Simpson. The group can meet for dinner at the Sub-Arctic Cafe for a final farewell meal and goodbye to your guides (accommodations and meal not included).

Day 12: Homeward Bound (B)
After a relaxing morning and time to look around the Village of Fort Simpson, you will board your homeward plane with a load of fond memories and a relaxed and renewed spirit!

Flora and Fauna
The flora of the Nahanni River area may be more diverse than that of any other region of comparable size in the NWT. Although white and black spruce predominate, there is a fascinating variety of other vegetation in the region. This is primarily due to the existence of highly specialized habitats like hot springs, mist zones near waterfalls, unglaciated terrain and areas of discontinuous permafrost.

Wildlife in the Nahanni region are diverse and abundant. Moose, woodland caribou, wood buffalo, Dall sheep, mountain goat, grizzly and black bears frequent the South Nahanni River Valley, as do porcupine, beaver and a number of smaller rodents. Because the river is often silty, fishing is not as plentiful however Dolly Varden, lake trout and grayling can be caught in the clearer waters of the many tributaries that join the river. 170 species of birds have been recorded in the park including trumpeter swans, bald eagles, golden eagles, peregrine and gyrfalcons.